The 2F weld is one of the most common welding positions used in fabrication, construction, and structural steelwork. Also known as the horizontal fillet weld position, it’s a foundational skill every welder needs to understand—especially if certification or professional work is the goal.
While the 2F position is considered easier than vertical or overhead welding, it still requires solid technique, proper torch angle, and good control of the weld pool. This article explains what a 2F weld is, when it’s used, how it compares to other positions, and how to weld it correctly.
What Is 2F Welding Position?

A 2F weld refers to a horizontal fillet weld made where two metal pieces meet at a right angle. In this position, one piece is vertical and the other is horizontal, with the weld bead running horizontally along the joint.
The “2” identifies the welding position (horizontal), while the “F” stands for fillet weld. This type of weld is commonly used on T‑joints, lap joints, and corner joints, making it extremely common in real‑world fabrication.
Because gravity affects the molten weld pool, the 2F weld requires more control than flat welding—but far less difficulty than vertical or overhead positions.
How 2F Differs From 2G Groove and Flat Positions
Although it’s a basic position, 2F welding behaves differently than flat or groove welding.
2F vs Flat Welding (1F / 1G)
In flat welding, gravity helps the weld pool settle into the joint. In 2F welding, gravity pulls the molten metal downward, which can cause sagging if heat and travel speed aren’t controlled.
2F vs 2G Welding
- 2F weld: Horizontal fillet weld
- 2G weld: Horizontal groove weld
Fillet welds join metals at an angle, while groove welds penetrate a prepared joint between plates. Each requires different techniques and inspection criteria.
Understanding all the key techniques can boost your confidence. Learn more in our article, 4 Basic Types of Welding Positions.
Why 2F Matters & When You Use It

Sometimes you need a welding position that works for joints where one piece sits flat and the other stands up. That’s where 2F comes in handy.
It lets you make strong, clean joints and gives you good control over the shape of your weld.
Common on T‑Joints and Lap Fillets in Fabrication
2F shows up a lot on T-joints and lap fillets. Those are everywhere in metal fabrication—two surfaces meeting at right angles.
Because you’re welding along a horizontal surface against a vertical one, 2F makes it easier to lay down fillets that look and hold great. The 45-degree torch angle helps you shape the bead just how you want it.
It’s perfect for frames, boxes, and other builds that need T-joints for strength. Lap fillet welds benefit too, since they join overlapping plates with less hassle.
2F helps you dodge sagging and ugly beads. If you want consistent, strong connections, it’s a solid pick.
Certification Test for Fillet Position Qualifies Flat and Horizontal Use
Getting certified in 2F proves you can handle fillet welds on both horizontal and flat surfaces. That’s why it’s a standard for a lot of welding exams.
Pass the test and you’ll show you can deal with things like molten metal flowing downward and keeping bead shape while welding sideways. That’s not nothing.
Most certifying organizations include 2F because it matches real-world welding challenges. If you’ve got a 2F cert, you’re set up for a bunch of jobs in construction, manufacturing, and repair work.
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Proper Technique for a Clean 2F Weld

When you’re welding in 2F, you’ll wrestle with controlling the weld puddle and keeping your angles right for strong, even beads. Paying attention to these details is what separates a clean, durable weld from a mess.
Torch and Electrode Angle
For a proper 2F weld, the torch or electrode should be held at approximately a 45‑degree angle into the joint. This angle allows the molten metal to flow evenly into both base materials.
Maintaining a consistent work angle is critical for avoiding lack of fusion or uneven bead shape.
Controlling the Weld Pool
Gravity is the main challenge in 2F welding. To prevent sagging:
- Keep the weld puddle small and controlled
- Avoid excessive heat input
- Maintain a steady, consistent travel speed
Moving too slowly allows metal to droop, while moving too fast can cause poor fusion or underfilled joints.
Bead Size and Layering
For larger fillet welds, bead stacking is often used. Laying multiple, even passes improves strength and reduces distortion. Each bead should be uniform and allowed to cool slightly before the next pass.
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Common 2F Weld Defects and How to Fix Them
Even experienced welders can run into issues when performing a 2F weld. Because gravity constantly pulls the molten metal downward, small mistakes in heat, angle, or travel speed can quickly show up in the finished weld. Understanding the most common defects—and how to correct them—can dramatically improve weld quality and inspection results.
Undercut
Undercut occurs when the base metal along the weld toe is melted away without being properly filled.
Causes:
- Excessive heat or amperage
- Travel speed that’s too fast
- Incorrect torch or electrode angle
How to fix it:
- Reduce heat input slightly
- Slow down and allow proper fill at the toes
- Maintain a consistent 45° work angle
Overlap
Overlap happens when molten metal rolls over the base metal without fusing properly.
Causes:
- Travel speed that’s too slow
- Weld puddle becoming too large
- Excessive filler deposition
How to fix it:
- Increase travel speed slightly
- Keep the weld puddle small and controlled
- Reduce wire feed speed or amperage
Cold Lap (Lack of Fusion)
Cold lap occurs when weld metal fails to fuse with the base metal, even though it appears visually acceptable.
Causes:
- Low heat input
- Incorrect torch angle
- Welding too quickly
How to fix it:
- Increase amperage or voltage
- Direct more heat into the joint
- Pause briefly at each side of the fillet to ensure fusion
Porosity
Porosity appears as small holes or cavities in the weld and can weaken joint strength.
Causes:
- Contaminated base metal
- Moisture in electrodes or shielding gas issues
- Improper gas flow (for MIG or TIG welding)
How to fix it:
- Clean the joint thoroughly before welding
- Use dry, properly stored electrodes
- Check gas flow rate and shielding coverage
Weld Sag or Drooping Bead
Sagging is especially common in the 2F weld position due to gravity.
Causes:
- Excessive heat input
- Slow travel speed
- Using non‑positional filler metal
How to fix it:
- Lower heat slightly
- Increase travel speed
- Use fast‑freezing, all‑position filler metals
Best Welding Processes & Filler Metals
2F works with several arc welding methods, but picking the right process and filler metal makes a big difference. The right combo keeps your weld puddle under control and helps avoid sagging or poor fusion.
The rods and wires you use really affect how clean and strong your welds turn out.
MIG, TIG, Stick & FCAW All Support 2F—Choose Correct Filler Metals
You can use MIG, TIG, Stick (SMAW), and FCAW for 2F. MIG is popular for its control and steady heat. TIG gives you precision, but it’s a bit trickier. Stick welding is flexible and works well for 2F, but you’ve got to pick the right rods. FCAW is great for thicker metals and deep penetration.
Pick filler metals that freeze quickly to avoid sagging. For MIG, go with wires like ER70S-6 for mild steel. TIG uses rods like ER70S-2. Stick electrodes like E6011 or E7018 are solid choices—they flow well and keep a stable arc. FCAW wires with fast-freezing slag keep the weld’s shape tight.
Use Positional-Approved Rods/Wires for Clean Fillet Welds
Choosing the right filler metal makes a noticeable difference in 2F weld quality. Fast‑freezing, all‑position fillers help maintain bead shape and prevent sagging.
Common options include:
- MIG wire: ER70S‑6
- TIG rod: ER70S‑2
- Stick electrodes: E6011 or E7018
- FCAW wire: Positional‑rated flux‑cored wires
Always match filler metal to the base material and follow manufacturer recommendations.
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Recommended 2F Weld Settings (Amperage, Voltage, and Wire Speed)
Correct machine settings play a major role in producing clean, consistent 2F welds. While exact values depend on material thickness, welding process, and joint design, the guidelines below provide a solid starting point.
Stick Welding (SMAW) 2F Settings
- Electrode: E6011 or E7018
-
Amperage:
- 1/8″ electrode: 90–130 amps
-
Polarity:
- E6011: DCEP or AC
- E7018: DCEP
Lower amperage helps prevent sagging while still achieving good fusion in horizontal fillet welds.
MIG Welding (GMAW) 2F Settings
- Wire: ER70S‑6
- Wire diameter: 0.030″–0.035″
- Voltage: 17–20 volts
- Wire feed speed: 180–250 inches per minute
- Shielding gas: 75% Argon / 25% CO₂
Use a short‑circuit or controlled spray transfer to maintain a manageable weld puddle in the 2F position.
TIG Welding (GTAW) 2F Settings
- Filler rod: ER70S‑2
- Amperage: 80–130 amps (depending on material thickness)
- Polarity: DCEN
- Tungsten: 2% thoriated or lanthanated
TIG welding offers excellent control for 2F welds but requires careful heat management to avoid excessive puddle buildup.
FCAW 2F Settings
- Wire: Positional‑rated flux‑cored wire
- Voltage: 18–24 volts
- Wire feed speed: Follow manufacturer recommendations
FCAW is especially effective for thicker materials where deeper penetration is required.
Fine‑Tuning Your 2F Weld Settings
No two jobs are exactly the same. Always:
- Run test beads before production welding
- Watch the weld puddle, not just the arc
- Adjust settings gradually, not drastically
The goal is a smooth, evenly shaped fillet weld with solid fusion and no sagging.
Preparing for a 2F Weld Qualification Test

If you’re about to take a 2F weld qualification, you’ll want to know exactly how to prep your test plate and paperwork. Getting the setup right is half the battle.
Test Plate Setup: T‑Joint, 5/16″ Fillet on Plate in Horizontal (PB) Position
You’ll weld a 5/16-inch fillet on a T-joint test plate. The plate sits in the horizontal (PB) position and is usually at least half an inch thick.
Clean the joint—no rust, oil, or dirt. Aim for a consistent weld size with good fusion between base and weld metal.
Use a steady technique so you don’t get undercut or slag inclusions. The weld is horizontal, but the face is vertical, so practice keeping your torch steady and angles sharp.
Certifications: AWS or ASME Credentials Require Meeting Test Acceptance Criteria
To get certified, your weld has to meet AWS or ASME acceptance criteria. They’ll check for the right size, no cracks or porosity, and solid fusion.
You’ll be tested to standards like AWS D1.1 or ASME Section IX. Passing a 2F fillet test usually qualifies you for other positions, like 1F and 1G.
Stick to the procedures and control your current, speed, and electrode type. If your weld passes, you’ll get that official welder certification.
Final Thoughts
The 2F weld is a fundamental welding position that combines accessibility with real‑world relevance. It teaches essential skills like puddle control, angle consistency, and bead placement—all of which carry over to more advanced positions.
By mastering the 2F welding position, welders improve both their technical ability and employability. With practice, proper setup, and the right materials, clean and durable 2F welds become second nature.
Ready to improve your skills? Check out our welding machines, protective gear, and welding wires today.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is f2 in welding?
The term "f2" doesn’t show up in standard welding codes or positions. You’re probably thinking of "2F," which is the actual welding position.
"2F" means horizontal fillet welding. In this setup, you weld a joint on a horizontal surface, but the weld itself is vertical.
If you see "f2," double-check the context—it’s often a typo or a non-standard label. Stick with "2F" when you’re talking about the horizontal fillet weld position. It keeps things clear.
What does f mean in welding position?
The letter F stands for Fillet weld. Fillet welds join two parts at an angle, usually at ninety degrees or so.
These welds create a triangular cross-section, which you see a lot in structural work. When you spot "F" with a number, like "2F," it tells you both the position and the weld type.
The number shows the workpiece orientation, while "F" means you’re doing a fillet weld in that position—like horizontal (2F) or vertical (3F).
What is the difference between 1G and 2F welding?
1G and 2F are both welding positions, but they focus on different weld types and orientations.
- 1G is a flat groove weld. The metal parts are flat, and you weld from above.
- 2F is a horizontal fillet weld. You’re welding a fillet joint in a horizontal position, where the weld is vertical on a horizontal surface.
Basically, 1G is for groove welds lying flat, and 2F is for fillet welds in a horizontal spot.
What is an F number in welding?
An F number classifies a weld type based on the fillet weld size and shape in welding procedure specs (WPS), especially in codes like ASME.
This number helps you figure out the thickness and quality requirements for the fillet weld. Depending on what you’re welding and how strong the joint needs to be, the F number guides how large or deep the fillet should go.
Always check your project specs. The F number affects your welding technique and what inspectors will look for.
What is a G2 weld?
A G2 weld is shorthand for the 2G welding position.
- G stands for groove weld.
- The number 2 tells you the weld happens in the horizontal position.
In 2G, you weld a groove joint while the pipe or plate sits vertically. You work across the horizontal plane, which can throw some curveballs your way.
Gravity acts on the molten weld pool in unexpected ways here, making things trickier than in flat positions.
It's helpful to know how 2G stacks up against 2F. 2F is for fillet welds, not groove welds, and it also uses a horizontal setup.