If you’re into welding, you’ll want to get familiar with the 2F welding position. The 2F weld position, also called the horizontal fillet weld position, involves welding along a horizontal axis with the weld placed on the upper side of a horizontal piece against a vertical one. This position is ideal for joints like T-joints, lap joints, and corner joints.
The 2F position means you’re welding on a vertical surface, but the weld itself runs horizontally. This setup pops up all the time in construction and fabrication because you can join pieces at a 90-degree angle and get strong, tidy welds.
Welding positions matter. They shape how you hold your torch and move your hands.
2F is one of the basics, along with flat, vertical, and overhead positions. If you can handle 2F, you’ll boost the quality and strength of your work—especially for things like pipes and frameworks where you don’t want any weak spots.
Getting good at 2F also helps if you’re eyeing certification tests. You’ll have to control the weld pool to avoid drips, but with the right angle and a bit of practice, you’ll get solid, lasting welds.
What Is 2F Welding Position?
2F is a go-to way to join metals. You hold your torch at a specific angle and work along a horizontal surface.
It’s all about making a fillet weld—joining two pieces at a right angle. You’ve got to keep things steady to make sure the weld’s strong and looks good.
Definition: Horizontal Fillet Weld, Torch at ~45°
In 2F, your workpiece sits horizontally. The weld fills the corner where the two pieces meet, usually making an “L” shape.
Your torch or gun should stay at about a 45-degree angle. That angle helps you control the weld pool and keeps the molten metal flowing into the joint, not dripping down.
You’ll see this a lot in structural steelwork and pipe welding—anywhere you need fillet welds on a flat surface.
How 2F Differs From 2G Groove and Flat Positions
2F is for fillet welds on horizontal surfaces. 2G is for groove welds in the same position, but those go deeper, welding inside a groove between metals.
Flat welding (1F or 1G) is easier since gravity helps you out. In 2F, you’re welding on a vertical face with a horizontal joint, so gravity tries to mess with your weld pool and you have to work a bit harder to keep things tidy.
Understanding all the key techniques can boost your confidence. Learn more in our article, 4 Basic Types of Welding Positions.
Why 2F Matters & When You Use It
Sometimes you need a welding position that works for joints where one piece sits flat and the other stands up. That’s where 2F comes in handy.
It lets you make strong, clean joints and gives you good control over the shape of your weld.
Common on T‑Joints and Lap Fillets in Fabrication
2F shows up a lot on T-joints and lap fillets. Those are everywhere in metal fabrication—two surfaces meeting at right angles.
Because you’re welding along a horizontal surface against a vertical one, 2F makes it easier to lay down fillets that look and hold great. The 45-degree torch angle helps you shape the bead just how you want it.
It’s perfect for frames, boxes, and other builds that need T-joints for strength. Lap fillet welds benefit too, since they join overlapping plates with less hassle.
2F helps you dodge sagging and ugly beads. If you want consistent, strong connections, it’s a solid pick.
Certification Test for Fillet Position Qualifies Flat and Horizontal Use
Getting certified in 2F proves you can handle fillet welds on both horizontal and flat surfaces. That’s why it’s a standard for a lot of welding exams.
Pass the test and you’ll show you can deal with things like molten metal flowing downward and keeping bead shape while welding sideways. That’s not nothing.
Most certifying organizations include 2F because it matches real-world welding challenges. If you’ve got a 2F cert, you’re set up for a bunch of jobs in construction, manufacturing, and repair work.
Expanding your skill set opens up new opportunities. Explore your options in Different Types of Welding Jobs and Careers in 2024.
Key Challenges & Best Techniques
When you’re welding in 2F, you’ll wrestle with controlling the weld puddle and keeping your angles right for strong, even beads. Paying attention to these details is what separates a clean, durable weld from a mess.
Gravity Control: Prevent Sag by Controlling Puddle and Travel Speed
Gravity wants to pull your molten puddle down, which can make the weld sag or look uneven. You’ve got to keep the puddle small enough to manage but big enough for good fusion.
Your travel speed really matters. Go too slow and the puddle sags; too fast, and you’ll miss spots or end up with weak joints. Try to keep a steady pace—don’t rush, don’t dawdle.
Stick with a consistent technique. Steady hands and the right electrode angle help keep the puddle in check. Adjust your current and voltage to fit the joint, and you’ll get tighter, cleaner welds.
Maintain 45° Angle and Layer Bead Welding Stacks for Strength
Keep your torch or electrode at a 45° angle. That gives you better penetration and lets the weld flow along both surfaces.
Build your weld in layers (bead stacking) for more strength. Drop a bead, let it cool a bit, then add the next—don’t rush it. That way, you avoid distortion and set a solid base.
Make your beads even in size and shape. Uneven ones can leave weak spots or gaps. Layering also helps you fill bigger joints without overheating or losing control of the puddle.
If you get the angle and stacking right, your welds will hold up a lot better under stress. They’ll last longer, too.
Choosing the right approach makes a big difference in your results. Discover the details in Uphill vs Downhill Welding.
Best Welding Processes & Filler Metals
2F works with several arc welding methods, but picking the right process and filler metal makes a big difference. The right combo keeps your weld puddle under control and helps avoid sagging or poor fusion.
The rods and wires you use really affect how clean and strong your welds turn out.
MIG, TIG, Stick & FCAW All Support 2F—Choose Correct Filler Metals
You can use MIG, TIG, Stick (SMAW), and FCAW for 2F. MIG is popular for its control and steady heat. TIG gives you precision, but it’s a bit trickier. Stick welding is flexible and works well for 2F, but you’ve got to pick the right rods. FCAW is great for thicker metals and deep penetration.
Pick filler metals that freeze quickly to avoid sagging. For MIG, go with wires like ER70S-6 for mild steel. TIG uses rods like ER70S-2. Stick electrodes like E6011 or E7018 are solid choices—they flow well and keep a stable arc. FCAW wires with fast-freezing slag keep the weld’s shape tight.
Use Positional-Approved Rods/Wires for Clean Fillet Welds
For neat fillet welds in 2F, stick with positional-approved filler metals. Those rods and wires are made for horizontal joints, so the bead doesn’t drip or sag.
Look for stuff labeled “all-position” or rated for horizontal welding. That way, you’ll have better control over the molten metal and fewer problems with undercut or lumpy beads.
These rods and wires help your welds stay strong, with good penetration and fusion. Keep spatter to a minimum and clean the joint well for best results. Always check the manufacturer’s recommendations to match your process and base metal.
Specialized skills can lead to rewarding careers. Find out how in Pipeline Welding: How to Become a Pipeline Welder.
Preparing for a 2F Weld Qualification Test
If you’re about to take a 2F weld qualification, you’ll want to know exactly how to prep your test plate and paperwork. Getting the setup right is half the battle.
Test Plate Setup: T‑Joint, 5/16″ Fillet on Plate in Horizontal (PB) Position
You’ll weld a 5/16-inch fillet on a T-joint test plate. The plate sits in the horizontal (PB) position and is usually at least half an inch thick.
Clean the joint—no rust, oil, or dirt. Aim for a consistent weld size with good fusion between base and weld metal.
Use a steady technique so you don’t get undercut or slag inclusions. The weld is horizontal, but the face is vertical, so practice keeping your torch steady and angles sharp.
Certifications: AWS or ASME Credentials Require Meeting Test Acceptance Criteria
To get certified, your weld has to meet AWS or ASME acceptance criteria. They’ll check for the right size, no cracks or porosity, and solid fusion.
You’ll be tested to standards like AWS D1.1 or ASME Section IX. Passing a 2F fillet test usually qualifies you for other positions, like 1F and 1G.
Stick to the procedures and control your current, speed, and electrode type. If your weld passes, you’ll get that official welder certification.
Final Thoughts
Mastering the 2F welding position takes steady control and practice. Welding where a horizontal and vertical surface meet can be challenging, but it’s easier than overhead or vertical positions and is essential for construction and pipework.
Practicing 2F improves your hand stability and weld quality on complex joints. Adjust your travel speed and electrode angle as needed, and watch your weld puddle closely for real-time feedback. Avoid common mistakes like moving too quickly or not filling the joint to achieve strong, reliable welds.
Ready to improve your skills? Check out our welding machines, protective gear, and welding wires today.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is f2 in welding?
The term "f2" doesn’t show up in standard welding codes or positions. You’re probably thinking of "2F," which is the actual welding position.
"2F" means horizontal fillet welding. In this setup, you weld a joint on a horizontal surface, but the weld itself is vertical.
If you see "f2," double-check the context—it’s often a typo or a non-standard label. Stick with "2F" when you’re talking about the horizontal fillet weld position. It keeps things clear.
What does f mean in welding position?
The letter F stands for Fillet weld. Fillet welds join two parts at an angle, usually at ninety degrees or so.
These welds create a triangular cross-section, which you see a lot in structural work. When you spot "F" with a number, like "2F," it tells you both the position and the weld type.
The number shows the workpiece orientation, while "F" means you’re doing a fillet weld in that position—like horizontal (2F) or vertical (3F).
What is the difference between 1G and 2F welding?
1G and 2F are both welding positions, but they focus on different weld types and orientations.
- 1G is a flat groove weld. The metal parts are flat, and you weld from above.
- 2F is a horizontal fillet weld. You’re welding a fillet joint in a horizontal position, where the weld is vertical on a horizontal surface.
Basically, 1G is for groove welds lying flat, and 2F is for fillet welds in a horizontal spot.
What is an F number in welding?
An F number classifies a weld type based on the fillet weld size and shape in welding procedure specs (WPS), especially in codes like ASME.
This number helps you figure out the thickness and quality requirements for the fillet weld. Depending on what you’re welding and how strong the joint needs to be, the F number guides how large or deep the fillet should go.
Always check your project specs. The F number affects your welding technique and what inspectors will look for.
What is a G2 weld?
A G2 weld is shorthand for the 2G welding position.
- G stands for groove weld.
- The number 2 tells you the weld happens in the horizontal position.
In 2G, you weld a groove joint while the pipe or plate sits vertically. You work across the horizontal plane, which can throw some curveballs your way.
Gravity acts on the molten weld pool in unexpected ways here, making things trickier than in flat positions.
It's helpful to know how 2G stacks up against 2F. 2F is for fillet welds, not groove welds, and it also uses a horizontal setup.