Overhead welding is one of the toughest welding positions because the weld puddle moves above you instead of below. This makes control, safety, and technique more important than ever.
If you want to pass certification tests, improve your skills, or prepare for real jobsite work, learning how to weld overhead in the 4G position is a must.
This guide explains what overhead welding is, how the 4G welding position works, the best tips for clean results, and the safety steps every welder should follow.
Key Takeaways
- Overhead welding is done from below the joint and requires strong control of heat, puddle, and motion.
- The 4G welding position is for overhead groove welds on plates.
- Use low heat, tight arc control, and short travel motions to prevent spatter and sagging.
- Protective gear is critical due to sparks falling downward.
- Practice on scrap pieces before welding structural materials.
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What is Overhead Welding?
Overhead welding (technically known as the 4G position for groove welds or 4F for fillet welds) occurs when the welding is performed from the underside of the joint.
In this position, the metal plate is located above the welder's head, and the weld face points downward. Unlike flat or horizontal welding, gravity is working entirely against you.
As the metal melts, it naturally wants to drip down, meaning the welder must use specific techniques, travel speeds, and machine settings to freeze the puddle before it falls.
Understanding the Codes
- 4G (Overhead Groove Weld): This is where two plates are joined together directly above your head. The face of the weld is looking down at the ground. This is the standard structural certification test position.
- 4F (Overhead Fillet Weld): This is a T-joint welded overhead. Imagine welding a beam to the underside of a ceiling. You are welding into the corner where the two pieces meet above you.
Why is Overhead Welding So Hard?
The difficulty comes down to physics. When you melt steel, it becomes a liquid. Liquids want to flow down. In overhead welding, "down" means falling out of the joint.
To keep the metal in place, you have to rely on surface tension and arc force.
- Surface Tension: Think of how a drop of water can hang from a ceiling without falling. If the drop is small enough, it sticks. If the drop gets too big, it falls. The same rule applies to your weld puddle. You have to keep the puddle small so it can defy gravity.
- Arc Force: The electric arc coming off your rod or wire actually has physical force (like a tiny jet engine). By holding a tight arc, you are literally using electricity to push the liquid metal up into the joint until it freezes.
If you can master the 4G position, you can weld almost anything. It is a mandatory skill for pipe welding certifications (like the famous 6G Welding Position) and heavy fabrication jobs.
Essential Safety Gear for Overhead Welding
Overhead welding is the most dangerous position for minor burns. In flat welding, sparks fly away from you. In overhead welding, you are standing directly in the "shower" of sparks and molten slag.
Head and Face Protection
A standard welding helmet is not enough if it does not seal well. Sparks can bounce off your chest and go right up under your welding hood.
- The Fix: wear a bandana or a welding cap backwards under your helmet to protect the top of your head.
- The Lens: Make sure your clear cover lens is fresh. You will be looking up, and a dirty lens creates a glare that prevents you from seeing the puddle.
Tips: Browse our top-rated Welding Helmets that offer superior coverage and clarity.
Body Protection
This is not the time for a cotton t-shirt. Cotton catches fire. Even treated cotton welding jackets can sometimes fail if a large glob of molten steel lands on them and sits there.
- Leather is King: You need a full leather welding jacket (or at least leather sleeves and a leather apron). Leather does not burn; it just smokes a little.
- Button Up: Button your collar all the way to the top. A spark going down your shirt is a dance move you do not want to learn.
Tips: Protect yourself with our professional Welding Protective Gear.
Earplugs
This is the most common injury new welders get. You turn your head sideways to see the puddle, and a hot spark falls perfectly into your ear canal. It sizzles, it burns, and it can cause an ear infection or permanent hearing damage.
- The Rule: Never weld overhead without earplugs. Ever.
Tips for Mastering the 4G Position (Stick Welding / SMAW)
Stick welding is the most common process for outdoor structural work, so you will likely learn 4G with a stick welder first. The two main rods you will use are 6010 and 7018.
1. Adjust Your Amperage
The biggest mistake beginners make is running the machine too hot. Heat makes the metal more fluid. Fluid metal drips.
- Turn it Down: If you weld a 1/8-inch 7018 rod at 125 amps in the flat position, turn it down to about 115 amps for overhead.
- The Goal: You want the machine "cold" enough that the puddle freezes quickly, but "hot" enough that the rod doesn't stick to the plate. It is a fine balance.
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2. The Golden Rule: Tight Arc Length
Arc length is the distance between the tip of your rod and the metal.
- Long Arc = High Voltage = Hot Puddle: If you pull the rod away (long arc), the voltage goes up, the puddle spreads out, and it drips on you.
- Tight Arc = Focused Heat: You want to bury the rod in the metal practically. Keep the arc as short as possible without actually snuffing it out. This focuses the heat and uses the arc force to "jet" the metal upward.
3. Rod Angle and Manipulation
- Dead Straight is Bad: If you hold the rod perfectly straight up (90 degrees), the falling sparks will hit your hand.
- Drag It: Angle the rod slightly back toward the weld you have already finished (about 5 to 10 degrees). This is called a "drag angle."
- No Pushing: Never push the rod forward in overhead stick welding. It creates slag inclusions.
- Technique for 7018: Do not weave much. Use a "stringer bead" technique. Just drag it straight and steady. If you must weave to tie in the toes, make it a very tight, small motion.
- Technique for 6010: You can still use the "whip and pause" motion, but make the whip smaller. Whip forward to gouge, pause to fill, then whip again.
Tips for Mastering Overhead MIG Welding (GMAW)
MIG welding overhead is easier than stick welding because you don't have to worry about chipping slag. However, if you get the settings wrong, it makes a huge mess.
1. Settings: Short Circuit Transfer
You want to weld in "Short Circuit" mode. This is that crisp, bacon-frying sound.
- Voltage: Turn your voltage down. If the voltage is too high, the wire forms a big ball before transferring, and gravity will pull that ball down. You want the wire to touch the metal and short out quickly.
- Wire Speed: You might need to increase wire speed slightly relative to your voltage to keep that arc tight and crisp.
2. Movement and Travel Speed
- Move Fast: You cannot hang around. If you stay in one spot for more than a second, the puddle will sag.
- The "Cursive e": A common motion for overhead MIG is a small loop or cursive "e" motion. This helps spread the puddle slightly and ensures the toes (edges) of the weld wet in properly.
Tips: Master your movement with our detailed guide on MIG Welding Patterns.
3. Gas Flow is Critical
Heat rises, and so does smoke. In the flat position, the smoke rises away from the weld. In the overhead position, the smoke rises into your gas nozzle. This can create turbulence and block your shielding gas.
- Crank it Up: Increase your gas flow rate to 35–45 CFH (cubic feet per hour). This strong blast of gas helps clear the fumes and protects the weld from porosity.
Tips: Check out our versatile Multi-Process Welders that handle MIG, Stick, and TIG.
Common Mistakes in Overhead Welding
If your welds look like grapes hanging from a vine, you are likely making one of these errors.
1. The "Drip" (Too Hot or Too Slow)
If you feel a glob of metal fall, stop. Do not keep welding. You have lost control of the puddle.
- Fix: Check your amps. If you are within range, check your travel speed. You are likely moving too slow. The puddle should freeze almost instantly behind you.
2. Undercut
Undercut is a groove melted into the base metal at the edge of the weld that isn't filled with filler metal. In overhead welding, this happens because gravity pulls the metal down from the top edge.
- Fix: If you are weaving, pause for a split second on the sides to let the metal fill in, then move quickly across the middle. If you are using a stringer bead, try to point the rod slightly more toward the upper plate.
3. Poor Posture
Welding overhead is tiring. Your arms are raised, blood drains from your hands, and your shoulders burn. When you get tired, you shake. When you shake, the arc length fluctuates, and the weld gets messy.
- Fix: Do not try to be a hero. Lean your shoulder against a wall. Prop your elbow on a ladder rung. Wrap the welding lead around your forearm to take the weight off your wrist. Comfort equals consistency.
4. Dirty Metal
In flat welding, you can sometimes get away with welding over a little rust because the impurities float to the top. In overhead welding, those impurities get trapped or cause the puddle to drip immediately.
- Fix: Grind your metal to shiny bright steel before you start. It makes the puddle "stick" much better.
Conclusion
Overhead welding is a battle. It is you against gravity. The first few times you try it, you will likely get burned, and your welds will look ugly. That is completely normal.
The secret to mastering the 4G position is patience and preparation. Take the time to set your machine correctly—remember, lower heat is better. Take the time to gear up—put on that leather jacket and those earplugs. And when you strike that arc, keep it tight and keep moving.
Don't let the drips discourage you. Every master welder you see on a job site started exactly where you are, dodging sparks and frustration.
Keep practicing, stay safe, and eventually, welding upside down will feel just as natural as welding flat on a bench.
Overhead Welding FAQs
Here are the answers to the questions we see most often on forums and job sites.
Why does my overhead weld keep dripping?
You are either running too hot (too much amperage/voltage) or your arc length is too long. A long arc spreads the heat out, making the puddle too large to hold itself up. Tighten up your arc and move faster.
What is the best rod for overhead welding?
For open roots (gap between plates), E6010 or E6011 is best because it freezes very fast. For fill and cap passes, E7018 is the industry standard because it provides high strength and a smooth finish, but it requires more skill to prevent dripping.
Is 4G the hardest welding position?
It is physically the most uncomfortable, no doubt. However, many welders consider the 6G (Pipe) position to be technically harder because it forces you to transition from overhead, to vertical, to flat all in one weld.
Can I use TIG for overhead welding?
Yes! TIG is actually fantastic for overhead work because it creates no spatter. You don't have to worry about sparks burning you. However, feeding the filler rod with your hand raised above your head takes a lot of dexterity and practice.
How do I practice for a 4G test?
Start with a "padding" exercise. Take a flat plate, put it overhead, and just run straight beads (stringers) until you can make them flat and consistent. Do not try to weld a joint until you can run a decent bead on a flat plate overhead.