The 1F welding position is probably the first one you'll run into as a welder, whether you’re just starting out or you’ve been at it for years. In simple terms, 1F means a fillet weld done flat—two pieces of metal meet at a right angle, and you weld from above. Gravity helps you here, making it easier to manage the weld pool. The “1” stands for flat, and the “F” stands for fillet weld.
Learning to weld in the 1F position builds your foundation. You can crank up the heat and move faster than in other positions, since the molten metal just flows right into the joint. It’s a great way to get comfortable and sharpen your technique.
This guide will cover what you need to know about 1F welding—how to set up, the right angles for your electrode, and how to sidestep the problems that trip up a lot of welders.
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Understanding The 1F Welding Position
The 1F welding position is a flat fillet weld where you work on a horizontal surface, with the joint right in front of you. It’s not a groove weld, and it’s got some real advantages for both new and seasoned welders—mainly in terms of control and efficiency.
What Does 1F Mean In Welding
"1F" tells you exactly what you’re up to. The “1” is for flat—your metal’s lying down, not up on its side or anything wild. The “F” is for fillet, meaning you’re joining two pieces at about 90 degrees with a triangular bead.
You’ll usually see 1F on T-joints or lap joints, where two pieces meet at a right angle. Gravity helps, pulling the molten metal into the joint. That’s different from the 1G position, which is also flat but for groove welds instead of fillets.
The 1F position follows AWS (American Welding Society) standards for position classification. These codes keep everyone on the same page in the welding world.
Why 1F Is The Easiest Welding Position
1F gives you the most control—gravity’s your friend, not your enemy. You can keep your bead steady without worrying about drips or the weld pool sliding out of place. Most folks keep their torch or electrode at about 45 degrees to both pieces.
Flat welding lets you move faster than vertical or overhead. Speeds of 400 to 600 mm per minute are pretty standard, and you can see the weld pool the whole time, so you can adjust on the fly.
You get more predictable heat in the 1F position. Higher amperage is no problem, and you still keep control of the puddle. That means deeper penetration and stronger welds, usually with less effort.
Common Uses For 1F Welds
1F fillet welds are everywhere in structural steel—building frames, support brackets, you name it. They join beams to columns and make those T-joint connections that hold up loads in construction. Manufacturing shops use 1F all the time for metal frames, equipment housings, and machinery parts.
Shipbuilding leans on 1F welds for deck-to-hull connections and internal supports. You can lay big sections flat, which makes life a lot easier. Pipeline supports and storage tanks also use 1F fillet welds for horizontal seams.
In automotive shops, folks use the 1F position for roll cages, chassis tweaks, and custom frames. If you can rotate the part and lay it flat, you’ll probably weld it in 1F.
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Best Practices For 1F Welding
If you want good 1F welds, you’ve got to nail torch positioning, pick the right materials, and keep your welds uniform. Get these right and your fillet welds will look sharp and hold strong.
Proper Torch Angle And Travel Speed
Your torch angle makes a big difference in penetration and bead shape. Keep your electrode at a 45-degree work angle, splitting the difference equally between both surfaces you're joining—this distributes the weld metal evenly on each leg of the fillet.
For your travel angle, tilt the torch just 10 to 15 degrees in the direction you’re moving. That helps the puddle and slag flow right. Stick welders should drag the electrode, not push.
Travel speed is huge. Too fast and your bead is skinny and weak. Too slow and you pile up too much metal, maybe even trap slag.
Watch the puddle. It should flow smoothly and wet into both sides of the joint. In the flat position, you can run hotter because gravity’s on your side.
Choosing The Right Filler Metal
Pick your electrode based on your base metal and thickness. E7018 is a go-to for carbon steel fillet welds in all positions, including 1F.
Set your amps to match electrode size and material thickness. For thin sheets (under 1/8 inch), 65 to 100 amps is plenty. Thicker stuff? Bump it up to 100-140 amps. A 3/32 inch electrode covers most general jobs.
On thick joints, don’t try to fill in one go. Three passes usually work better—each should blend into the last without gaps.
Achieving Consistent Bead Appearance
A good 1F weld bead should keep the same width and height all the way. Ripples should be even, showing you held a steady speed and heat.
Make sure the bead ties into both sides of the joint. If one side’s too heavy, tweak your angle. Keep the electrode centered.
Look for these signs of a solid weld:
- Smooth starts and stops
- Even ripple pattern
- No undercut at the toes
- Proper leg size on both sides
Always clean your metal before welding—get rid of mill scale, rust, oil, whatever. It’s not glamorous, but it makes a huge difference in bead quality and strength.
Troubleshooting 1F Welding Issues
In 1F welding, you might run into spatter, porosity, uneven beads, or burn-through. These can mess up your welds if you don’t catch them early.
Fixing Excessive Spatter And Porosity
Too much spatter usually means your amps are too high or you’re moving too fast. Try dropping your current by 10-15 amps and slow down. Always clean your base metal—rust, oil, and mill scale cause porosity.
Porosity shows up as tiny holes in the weld. It’s gas trapped in the metal. Check your electrode storage—moisture in the rod makes gas pockets. Keep 7018 rods in a rod oven at 250-300°F. Maintain your 45-degree work angle for proper fusion on both sides of the joint.
Wind and drafts can also blow away your shielding gas, causing porosity. Set up welding screens if you’re working outside. Keep your arc short—about 1/8 inch—so the pool stays stable and you get less spatter. These tweaks will help your welds come out cleaner and stronger.
Correcting Uneven Bead Width
If your bead isn’t even, your travel speed or angle might be off. Practice keeping your hand steady at a 10-15 degree travel angle. Aim for a bead that’s 2-3 times wider than your electrode.
Watch your angle. A 45-degree angle between the two pieces spreads filler metal evenly. Go too fast and you get a skinny, high bead with poor fusion. Too slow and you waste filler, ending up with a wide, flat bead.
For wider joints, use a slight weave. Keep the weave tight and steady. If the bead starts to wander, stop and reset—don’t just keep going. Mark your start and end points to help keep your speed steady.
Preventing Burn-Through On Thin Materials
Burn-through leaves holes in your base metal and ruins your weld. Drop your amps to 65-100 when working on thin stuff (under 1/8 inch). Use a smaller electrode—1/16 or 3/32 inch is good.
Move faster to keep heat out of the base metal. You want the metal to glow but not melt before you add filler. Try stitch welding—weld 1-2 inch sections, skip ahead, and let each cool before you go back.
Put a backing plate under thin metal to support the weld pool. Copper plates are great—they pull heat away. Keep your arc short and drag the rod to control heat.
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Conclusion: 1F Welding Position
Mastering the 1F welding position establishes a solid foundation for your entire welding career. Focus on maintaining proper torch angles, consistent travel speed, and appropriate heat settings to produce clean, uniform beads. With regular practice on flat fillet welds, you'll develop the muscle memory and puddle control needed for more advanced positions.
Start with proper joint preparation and machine settings, then work on achieving consistent bead appearance before increasing your speed. Pay attention to common issues like spatter, porosity, and burn-through, adjusting your technique as needed to eliminate these defects.
Looking for hands-on projects to practice your 1F welding skills? Check out these creative scrap welding projects that help you build experience while creating useful items from leftover metal.
Frequently Asked Questions: 1F Welding Position
The 1F position is a basic welding technique that beginners often start with, while other positions and welding careers build on these foundational skills.
What is the 1F position in welding?
1F means you're doing a fillet weld on a flat surface with the joint facing up. It's the easiest position to learn since gravity helps hold the weld pool in place instead of fighting against you. The "1" stands for flat and "F" means fillet weld.
What is the meaning of G in 1G, 2G, 3G, 4G, 5G, and 6G welding?
"G" stands for groove weld, which joins two pieces along their edges rather than at an angle like fillet welds. The number indicates position: 1G is flat, 2G is horizontal, 3G is vertical, 4G is overhead, 5G is fixed horizontal pipe, and 6G is pipe at 45 degrees. These codes help welders and inspectors identify the weld type and position required for each job.
What is the 6F position in welding?
6F is a fillet weld on a pipe tilted at 45 degrees, with the pipe fixed while you move around it. You have to change your technique constantly as you transition through flat, vertical, and overhead positions all in one weld. Passing a 6F test demonstrates advanced skills and is often required for structural and pipeline welding jobs.
What's the highest paid welding job?
Underwater welders typically earn the highest pay, bringing in $100,000 to $200,000 annually depending on experience and working conditions. Pipeline welders working on remote projects can earn $75,000 to $150,000 per year, especially with 6G pipe welding certification. Industrial shutdown welders, nuclear welders, and specialized TIG welders in aerospace also command premium salaries due to strict certification and safety requirements.